Vaglio is a small town situated on the crest of a hill in Basilicata, with a medieval layout that is still clearly visible, despite the changes that have taken place over time.
It boasts a stunning historic centre, characterised by its cobbled streets, as well as churches, archaeological sites and a museum.
The historic centre
This area centres on Piazza del Popolo and Piazza Municipio, where the main gates to the town centre were built; these are still well preserved in their original form. The town, which was probably originally built around a Norman fortress, has an elliptical shape that it has retained since the High Middle Ages.
Towards the end of the 15th century, there was a period of growth which led to the construction of the Church of St Peter the Apostle, and the village took on its present layout, occupying the entire summit of the mountain spur with streets running almost parallel to one another.
The presence in Vaglio of 16th-century palaces and religious buildings, such as the Convent of Sant’Antonio, and of the balconies and doorways that can be admired in various parts of the village, suggests that the architecture has, over time, acquired a remarkable sense of historical depth.
Church of San Donato
Among the religious buildings in Vaglio, Basilicata, the 14th-century Church of San Donato (or of Nazareth) is particularly noteworthy for its simple design and stone walls. The interior of the church consists of two side aisles flanking a central nave and separated by a single arch, each ending in a small semicircular apse. The interior walls of the church feature an interesting cycle of frescoes dating from the 14th to the 18th centuries.
The present-day church, in the centre of Vaglio, houses the Chapel of Santa Maria di Nazareth, with frescoed apses and walls. An inscription on the wall to the right of the inner arch commemorates the restoration work carried out in the mid-16th century.
The first phase of the restoration work carried out inside the Church of San Donato has revealed a number of frescoes dating from the 18th century. The oldest frescoes, uncovered on the north side of the apse of the Chapel of San Donato, date from the second half of the 14th century and the early 15th century.
On the right-hand wall of the arch are the remains of a figure that appears to depict a “Madonna Enthroned with the Child” from the same period. The frescoes in the apse depict two saints’ faces, presumably dating from the sixteenth century, whilst on the right-hand wall of the apse there is a tempera painting of a Pietà and Mary Magdalene embracing the cross, by an unknown local artist.
Church of St Peter the Apostle
The Church of St Peter the Apostle in Vaglio dates back to the 16th century and was built on the site of a pre-existing Norman fortress. The building is majestic, and above the church’s main portal there is an inscription dating from 1659, the year of one of the building’s restoration projects. The church has three naves and a domed roof.
The right-hand aisle features four marble altars, whilst the left-hand aisle is adorned with two 18th-century altars. The church is exquisitely decorated, with numerous sculptures dating from the 18th and 19th centuries, and several paintings attributed to Antonio Stabile (1540–1580), a painter believed to have been originally from Potenza.
According to critics, he was the artist behind *The Holy Family* and *Our Lady of the Rosary*.
Near the altar lies the body of Saint Faustino the Martyr, patron saint of Vaglio. Also worthy of mention are the organ and the choir, both made of carved wood, painted and gilded in the 18th century, and the 16th-century choir situated behind the high altar, decorated with carved panels depicting hunting scenes, flora and fauna.
Monastery of St Anthony
Sources confirm that the monastery of St Anthony had already been built by the end of the 16th century, when it belonged to the Friars of St Francis of Assisi. The church has a single nave, but its artistic heritage is of great significance. Of particular note is the 18th-century altar, carved from wood, painted and gilded; the altarpiece features vivid depictions of St Michael, the Annunciation and St Vitus, a 17th-century work by Francesco Paterno da Buccino.
At the centre of the altarpiece is a statue of Saint Anthony and two wooden statues of Saint Leonard (all dating from the 17th century). This decorative ensemble is in turn set within a beautiful, finely carved Baroque-style gilded wooden niche, the distinctive feature of which is the 18th-century oil paintings adorning the ceiling, depicting St Francis, the Virgin Mary and Saint Clare, set within a dense network of floral decorations.
The second altar on the right-hand wall features a painting of the Holy Family and Saint Anne by Francesco Paterno da Buccino, whilst the first altar on the right is adorned with a 17th-century fresco by Girolamo Todisco depicting the Madonna and Child with Saint Anne. The third altar features another painting by Francesco Paterno da Buccino, depicting Our Lady of Grace with Saints Dominic and Charles.
The side walls are adorned with several 18th-century paintings depicting Franciscan saints and the Virgin Mary, as well as a depiction of the Resurrection by Attilio De Laurentiis (17th century). Also of interest are the Baroque confessional and the two 18th-century busts of Saint Anthony of Padua and Saint Anthony the Abbot. Finally, the portal, carved from local stone in 1656, is also worth noting.
Church of the Carmine
The last church to visit in Vaglio is the Chiesa del Carmine, a single-nave church with an apse, preceded by a large garden with a fountain. The church has a beautiful 18th-century portal with a round arch.
Archaeological sites in Vaglio: Rossano di Vaglio and Serra di Vaglio
Having explored Vaglio’s religious heritage, it is also worth mentioning the town’s rich archaeological heritage, with significant finds at Rossano di Vaglio and Serra di Vaglio. The sanctuary at Rossano di Vaglio is one of the most important sanctuaries in southern Italy, and since its discovery, the area has yielded a considerable number of Oscan and Latin artefacts, which highlight the importance of the cult of Mephitis, the sanctuary’s principal deity for a long period from the 4th to the 1st century BC.
The following were found in Rossano di Vaglio fragments of marble statues and bronze sculptures, numerous votive pottery items and coins. The the goddess Mephitis was the deity protector of springs, but also of livestock, fields and fertility. The sanctuary at Rossano di Vaglio is linked to the Lucanian town of “Utia”, which was the political and military centre of the Lucanians.
Archaeological evidence suggests the existence of several settlements with a large number of craft workshops. The Braida tombs, however, differ significantly from other previously known sites: the royal tombs at Braida reveal the existence of individuals who were most likely the leaders of a wealthy local aristocracy. A large number of weapons, shields, swords and spears were found in all the male burial sites.
A fine collection of this excavated archaeological material is on display at the Museum of Vaglio in Basilicata, featuring multimedia displays and exhibitions of artefacts unearthed in recent years in southern Italy.
Other attractions near Vaglio
In the surrounding area, which is mainly wooded, there are also old farmhouses where tourists can sample local produce, such as homemade bread and pasta, and the famous “strascinati”, which, together with other dishes such as ravioli and orecchiette, are the pride of the local traditional cuisine.
Photo:.
Annalisa.vicario – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=57720815
